Even more than a German breakfast buffet, we relish a river bicycle path. A few years ago we discovered the Danube River trail and this time we’re on the Mosel River riding from Trier to Koblenz. Our luggage will be waiting 35 miles downriver tonight so we’ve limited ourselves to only one fork in the road…to a kaffee and kuchen stop.
After a farewell happy hour to wish cousin Chris and Leipzig auf Wiedersehen, Arlo & I made our way to Trier, Germany, on the Mosel River where our weeklong bike ride begins. Trier brags about being the oldest city in Germany and shows off impressive Roman gates, baths, and a gladiator amphitheater (that was hidden under vineyards until recently). Our hotel made us feel royal with a “sky pool” and a breakfast feast fit for a king. Arlo said, “Everything. That’s what’s for breakfast.” Though I’ve enjoyed many a German breakfast buffet, this one takes the crown.
We arrived in Germany during Spargel (white asparagus) season and noticed that infatuated locals put it on special menus and make meals centered on the fat albino stalks. To grow it, the asparagus has to be hidden from the sun by burying it in dirt mounds and then carefully plucked by hand. All this makes it the most expensive vegetable. It then has to be peeled and delicately cooked. It’s also thicker, more fibrous, and harder to chew. The season is short…and not sweet. Maybe they should call it the Pale-o Diet.
Not to be outdone by Dresden’s stollen, Leipzig’s signature pastry, the Leipziger Lerche, also earned Saxonian Baker’s Guild protection. Originally the recipe called for actual lark songbirds, herbs, and vegetables mixed into a savory pastry. In 1720 alone, 400,000 birds bit the pastry dust. Thankfully the larks now have their own protection and credit the bakers for helping to preserve them by creating the new sweet version: Pastry dough filled with marzipan, a cherry inside symbolizing the heart of the bird, and a cross on top as a reminder of the bands once used to tie up the birds. They fly off the bakery shelves!
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Bach lived and worked in Leipzig much of his life. At the Bach museum, across from the St Thomas church where he was cantor, I focused on some noteworthy quirky history: 1) Bach composed a “coffee cantata” in which a father forces his daughter to choose between marriage and coffee, often performed at a local coffeehouse; 2) Leipzig was the center of electrical research and one of Bach’s colleagues created the famous electric kiss experiment in which a woman stood on a stool charged with static electricity and when someone kissed her, sparks flew; 3) only one painting of Bach exists and his eyes follow you around the room; and 4) Bach died from a botched eye surgery. The annual BachFest begins the day after we leave (don’t fret, we’ll be Bach!).
Arlo’s cousin Chris has made his home in Leipzig which inspired us to start our trip here. His fiancée Linda has two young boys and our whirlwind play date at an amusement park in the countryside made us all feel like kids again. And that sky-high corkscrew slide? Gravity made me do it!
After climbing the Frauenkirche tower above the Elbe river, circumnavigating the palace grounds, and gawking at the Procession of Princes porcelain tile mural, Carmen had one more treat for us. Found only in Dresden, Haselbauer ice cream somehow finds a niche softer than soft serve. So soft that it requires painting (not scooping) it onto a mussel shaped edible bowl. Shell, yeah! I’m already falling face first into the food tour and food blog habit!
