According to local claw and order, Islam holds cats in high regard for their cleanliness and consider them to be community pets. Fur the record, everyone cares for them by leaving food and water out, offering shelter, and vets provide spaying or neutering. My baggie of American cat treats grants me purr-mission to herd cats. Note: We had a great documentary about the cats of Istanbul at the Mendocino Film Festival about 10 years ago called KEDI, now available on Prime or AppleTV.
After a whirlwind tour of Istanbul's Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and the Grand Bazaar, our group celebrated the start of our tour at dinner under the Galata Bridge that crosses the Golden Horn. While we ate salted and flaming fish and drank Raki (ouzo-like liquor made of anise and raisins) the fishermen on the bridge above us continued to reel in small mackerel that would float up past us on their nearly invisible lines in the darkness giving us a whole new view of fly fishing.
Before meeting up with our tour group, we dived down into the 1500 year old subterranean Basilica Cistern that provided 20 million gallons of water to the city, then called Constantinople. The 336 columns are a uniform 30 feet tall but a few had to be adjusted with salvaged blocks from ruins. Medusa heads propped up two of the columns, one head sideways and one upside down, perhaps positioned that way simply to provide the appropriate height. A myth-understood explanation may be that the builders were protecting us from Medusa’s deadening gaze that would turn us all into stone.
Julie’s glowing recommendation for Rick Steves tours enticed us to join her on a two-week trip to Turkey. Over the top of the world, the Northern Lights put on a polarizing show. A swim in the hotel’s cistern themed pool and a dinner on the streets of Istanbul marked the beginning of what we hope to be Aurora-ing success.
One last swim the English Channel (or as the French say, La Manche) to soothe my blisters for our limp through the last day’s 13 miles to our finish in Lannion. We totaled 82 miles in six days and it took a toll on our soles. (Next time: twice as many days and half as many miles each day and/or layover days to explore the rural towns and swim more.) Thanks to our adventurous friends E&C who not only made the trip extra special but spoiled me with French amuse-bouche and a cheese course steered to the table on a cart. Un-brie-lievable! Special thanks to Arlo who led the way in our Tour de France (and Germany). He’s the crème brûlée of the crop. And thanks to you for coasting along with us.
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The Mosel River in Germany offered wine in vending machines and in France we’ve stumbled upon automats with pizza, baguettes, and even kayaks. Something I won’t baguette about are the little free sand toy boxes for borrowing and returning beach toys.
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Pink granite formations, chateaus, islands, and lighthouses rocked our walk and this popular section of the trail set in stone made us feel boulder.
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