Our coastal path takes us along beaches, across beaches, on shady tree-lined sections, past fields of artichokes, and through tiny hydrangea-filled hamlets. We follow the red-and-white trail markers to stay on track. After our 15 miles the first day, the 14 miles on day two toughened us, blisters and all.
All over Normandy and Brittany the locals ravenously slurp up pots of steamed mussels (moules). Served in a big steaming pot, you use the lid for the empty shells. To look like a pro, you pull the orange meat of the first mussel out with your fingers and then use that empty shell as your pincers to pull the meat from the next 99 shells. They eat a lot. I assume the sauce is the main attraction because, well, it’s France. The sauce choices include Camembert, crème, Roquefort, or mariniere (white wine and shallots). Always served with French fries (frites), apparently due to the original Belgian tradition. My only explanation: like escargot, they are easy to catch.
Sent from Ann's iPhone
About 18 years ago, on a trip to a small town in Brittany with friends, I learned about the long-distance coastal path, the GR34, or “the G” to those in the know. And now here we are on an 8-day walk with those very friends along a section of the path known as the pink granite coast. Blissful rain and a 15-mile day didn’t dampen our spirits one bit.
Sent from Ann's iPhone
With temps still hot we stayed close to the shoreline and headed to northern Normandy where we found small fishing villages and white chalk cliffs (same geologically as the White Cliffs of Dover). We bid our friends au revoir as they head further north and we head south to Brittany. One day our paths will croissant again.
Sent from Ann's iPhone
We kicked it up a notch and joined the watch party at a bar for the French World Cup match. Everyone sang the national anthem and jumped up to scream for their goal models. Pitch perfect!
Sent from Ann's iPhone
The Four Cs of Normandy include Camembert, cider, Calvados (apple brandy liqueur), and crème (cream sauces or crème brûlée). When we see “à la Normandy” on a menu we know it will be bathed in butter and cream. I understand my mission.
Sent from Ann's iPhone
With temperatures soaring we took to e-bikes in search of cooler coastal weather. We rode along the Gold and Juno D-Day beaches and took a swim in the English Channel but, even with that break, by the afternoon we all suffered from heat exhaustion and collapsed on the side of the road feeling the burn.
Sent from Ann's iPhone
